Archive for July, 2002
Another day in Bangkok. It was a busy day full of errands. Got up early and had my coffee and read the Bangkok Post at my usual coffee spot. Then I got my hair trimmed at the salon for a mere $2.50. Next I tried to book an overnight trip for tomorrow to Kachanaburi, but the one travel agent wasn?t open yet and the other one wanted 200 Baht more so I held off on that one. I decided instead to start pricing airfares to Nepal which is probably where I?ll go when I get back from Australia in September. I also reserved a seat for a flight to New Zealand in November so I’ve got a seat if I want it. Since I bought no advance tickets for this trip besides the one way to Bangkok, I’ve gotta shop along the way. And I wanted to get something for New Zealand soon because the high season is November/December/January and the flights can easily be full for weeks.
After that I did the internet thing for awhile, working on the site and going through the Burma pics. Then I went back to the travel agent to book the trip for tomorrow, had some lunch, sold back a book at the bookstore, and got a taxi to MBK, one of the main shopping malls in Bangkok.
It was there that I started my wild goose chase to get just 6 photos printed from my digital camera. I promised to try to send photos to some of the people I met in Myanmar, so I was trying to get the prints made today. Easier said than done.
One of the things that I absolutely hate the most about Asia is this – when you ask someone a question and they don?t know the answer, they never say ‘I don’t know.’ To save face, they lie. It is the most annoying thing when you are trying to get information or ask directions. I can’t tell you how many times I have wanted to scream ‘JUST TELL ME THE TRUTH!’ (Is this a sign that I really do need a break from Asia, yes, I think so.)
I really started with good intentions. I went through MBK, the most crowded mall in Asia, fought through the mobs to the 3rd floor, got to the photo shop, and asked them to do the prints.
‘Oh, we don’t do prints from disk.’
What do you mean? You can download from a camera, why not print?
‘Sorry, no have machine.’
Ok, well where can I get them printed?
‘Siam Centre.’
Siam Centre?
‘Yes.’
Are you SURE?
‘Yes.’
You’re ABSOLUTELY sure that I can get them printed at Siam Centre?
‘Yes.’
Fine. I fight my way out of the mall, through the crowds, traffic, and pollution, across the four-lane Sukhumvit, into Siam Centre, search for the photo shop in their joke of a directory, finally find it, go up to the 4th floor to the photo shop and ask can you print from CD?
‘No.’
What???
‘No.’
Are you sure?
‘Yes.’
They told me at MBK to come here.
‘No have. Maybe World Trade Center.’
Ahhhh! Such is the story of my life in Asia. I try to be patient, I try to speak slowly and ask over and over to make sure I’m understood, but still this shit happens to me every time. And I know you’re probably thinking, bitch stop your whining, you’re getting to see the world for Christ’s sakes, and I know you’re right, in the grand scheme of things these incidents do not matter but what I want you to understand is that it’s not a package tour I’m living where people do everything for me and everything goes smoothly. Every single little errand or thing I have to do requires so much effort that it can take an entire day to get one simple thing done, or longer, as in the case of these photos, because at the end if today I STILL have not been able to get them printed. After Siam Centre, I walked 15 minutes to the World Trade Center (when all I really wanted to do was walk back to MBK and tell them to STOP sending people to Siam Centre you morons!) and finally I found the photo shop at WTC. They said they could do it in 30 minutes. Splendid! Actually, I said ‘very good’ because Thais would not understand a word like splendid. So I wandered around the mall for a bit and 30 minutes later I went to pick up my prints. But we all already know they weren’t there. I don’t even know why actually, but it was something about the numbers not matching the photos which is fair enough but then the woman kept saying ‘another store’ ‘come back one hour.’ And I was like, huh? How can the photos be done in one hour if the numbers don’t match and what are you on about another store?? It just becomes exhausting. And I find it so ironic because all of the people here want to look like us and dress like us and they all hang out at McDonalds and Starbucks because that’s what WE do, and yet they are still so pathetically Asian. It’s so convenient how people suddenly lose their ability to speak English when you’ve caught them overcharging you. Or when they don’t feel like helping you, which is what happened at the WTC today. That’s when I feel homesick, because people can’t pull that shit on me at home and they wouldn’t do it anyway. Yes, I’d still rather be arguing with Asians than working in an office in corporate America but I definitely need a break!!!
Kachanaburi trip
Shalva and Jen
Shalva and Jen on the Kachanaburi trip
July 30th, 2002
Feels good to be back in Bangkok again, sitting here in an Italian restaurant, listening to jazz and waiting for a large glass of red wine, ahhhh, very civilized.
Been mostly running errands and catching up on emails the last few days. This morning I went to the Floating Market, an extremely touristy attraction 2 hours south of Bangkok. It’s one of those things I’d been waiting to see but up until now hadn’t taken the time to go. Now I know I wasn’t missing anything. Tourists by the bus load everywhere. It’s supposed to be a market on the canals where the locals are selling everything from fruits to hats to whatever from their longtail boats, but in reality it’s like ten boats of tourists to one local boat and it’s just a big circus. At least I can say I’ve done it now I guess.
I’ve got 3 more days here before I leave for Brisbane, Australia on Friday. Tomorrow I’ve got another dentist appointment to have more of my mercury fillings removed, which if I haven’t mentioned before, is costing me a mere $23/tooth. Then I may do an overnight trip on Wednesday/Thursday to the Bridge on the River Kwai, another tourists trap near Bangkok, but I don’t think it’s quite as bad as the Floating Market. I hope.
Then it’s off to Australia to meet up with the family. I don’t know what’s more exciting – the thought of seeing my family or getting out of Asia and to a western country where everyone speaks English for 3 whole weeks! I am looking forward to it. Just a short time there though and I’ll be back in Bangkok to finish up my SE Asia experience by visiting Laos and possibly Nepal. Then I hope to be in New Zealand for Christmas.
Anyway a bit more on Myanmar. While I was there I wanted to explain more about the military government rule and the oppression, etc, etc, but I knew that if for some reason a government official were to get hold of such a dialogue in my journal, I could have been deported at the very least and at worst put into prison. So I remained silent. But I want people to realize and understand what a f-ed up country it is and truthfully as a tourist I wasn’t even able to see it because the government controls where the tourists are permitted to go and the majority of the country (where there are prison camps, poppy fields, and heroin factories) are off-limits to foreigners.
Here’s what the US Department of State has to say about Myanmar (It’s really hard to believe that such kind and generous people are ruled by such an evil government):
COUNTRY DESCRIPTION: Burma (Myanmar) is a developing, agrarian country ruled by a military regime. The country’s political situation is relatively volatile as the military government suppresses expression of opposition to its rule.
The country has begun to encourage tourism after a long period of isolation. Foreigners can expect to pay at least five times more than locals do for hotels, airfare, and entry to tourist sites. Tourist facilities in the capital of Rangoon, Bagan, Taunggyi, and Mandalay are adequate, but they are very limited in most other areas of the country.
The military government rarely issues visas to journalists, and several journalists traveling to Burma on tourist visas have been denied entry. Journalists, and tourists mistaken for journalists, have been harassed. Some journalists have had film and notes confiscated upon leaving the country.
SAFETY AND SECURITY: Foreigners, including U.S. citizens, have been caught up in the Burmese Government’s suppression of the democratic opposition. U.S. citizens have been detained, arrested, tried and deported for, among other activities, distributing pro-democracy literature, photographing sites and activities, and visiting the homes and offices of Burmese pro-democracy leaders. Burmese authorities have warned U.S. Embassy officials that future offenders of these vague, unspecified restrictions will be jailed in lieu of deportation.
Burma experienced major political unrest in 1988 when the military regime jailed and/or killed an undetermined number of Burmese democracy activists. In 1990, the military government refused to recognize the results of an election that the opposition won overwhelmingly. Burma experienced major student demonstrations in 1996, and demonstrations occurred in August and September of 1998. Popular unrest and violence continue to be possible. U.S. citizens traveling in Burma should exercise caution and check with the U.S. Embassy for an update on the current situation. U.S. citizens are encouraged to carry their U.S. passports or photocopies of passport data and photo pages at all times so that, if questioned by Burmese officials, proof of U.S. citizenship is readily available.
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS: Customs regulations are restrictive and strictly enforced. Travelers have reported that their luggage is closely searched upon arrival and departure by Customs authorities. It is illegal to take many items, including antiques, out of Burma. Foreigners have been detained, searched and imprisoned for attempting to take Burmese gems out of the country. Customs officials also strictly limit what is brought into the country. However, the military government can not or will not provide a complete listing of prohibited imports. The military government restricts access to outside information. Newspapers are censored for articles unfavorable to the military government. Any publications that could be viewed as pro-democracy and/or anti-junta will be confiscated. Travelers have also reported problems bringing in high-tech electronic devices and equipment, from toys to computers.
COMPUTERS, INTERNET, AND EMAIL: The military government has banned general Internet use in Burma. As of February 2002, Internet connections are illegal except to the government and a few favored businesses. It is illegal to own an unregistered modem in Burma, and tourists have had their laptop computers taken and held at the airport until their departure. Limited E-mail service is available at some large hotels. All e-mails are read by military intelligence. It is very expensive to send photographs via e-mail. One foreign visitor was presented a bill for $2,000.00 U.S. dollars after transmitting one photograph via a major hotel’s e-mail system.
PHOTOGRAPHY: Photographing people in uniform or any military installation is prohibited by Burmese authorities, and it could lead to arrest or the confiscation of cameras and film. Also, please avoid photographing power plants and bridges.
Floating Market
Some non-floating things at the Floating Market
July 29th, 2002
Well I’m back in Yangon, but only for a few hours, since I have a flight to Bangkok today at 16:30. This morning I flew from Bagan to Yangon via Mandalay and Heho. Even with 2 stops, the 2.5-hour flight was a much better option than a 20-hour bus ride.
My last day in Bagan (yesterday) was another great day, spent touring some of the temples by bicycles and hanging out at the market (again) having more clothes made. It was Lori, Mirit, and I who spent the entire day together. I’ve so enjoyed their company over the last few days that I know I will miss them. It was so much fun so me to engage in some good girl talk! At the market I had another skirt made for $3, Mirit had a pair of pants made, and Lori bought 2 shirts and had them altered to fit better. The women at the market were very happy with us because in 2 days we had already brought them more business from other travellers who saw ours skirts and wanted one made too. I’m sure that in another few months every tailor in the market will be displaying skirts for sale just like our’s.
Yesterday evening the 3 of us rode our bicycles to one of the temples for sunset. On the way we got caught in the rain but it was so beautiful, sun on one side, rain on the other, temples everywhere, and even a rainbow in the sky, that we didn’t care. At the temple we ran into Robbie who had also cycled there, so the 4 of us sat around and watched the sun set together. We all went to dinner together and had a very fun evening filled with good conversation and laughs.
This morning I said goodbye to everyone and left the New Heaven Guesthouse for my flight to Yangon. It’s possible that I’ll see Robbie and maybe even Lori again in Bangkok because they’ll both be heading there in the next few days. The Israeli girls, Mirit and Hadas, are planning to go to Chiang Mai from Mandalay so I doubt if I will see them in Thailand but I hope very much to see them again someday.
So now I have exactly 3.5 more hours to sit around in the airport before my flight. Normally I don’t mind sitting in airports at all but this particular airport is, well, let’s just say that it could use a few renovations. Well, okay, maybe a whole new airport. There is just nothing here, except for one restaurant, which is ridiculously overpriced for foreigners and is filled with cigarette smoke from all the locals in there smoking. Could this be the only international airport left in the world where smoking is still allowed everywhere? Right, there must be 2, since Mandalay also has an international airport. Come on Myanmar, get with the program here. And this is even more unbelievable – the local people actually come here to watch the planes take off. While I was in the smoke-infested restaurant, about 100 people came in and crowded around the windows to look outside. I knew they weren’t travellers because they were all wearing flip-flops and just holding umbrellas or newspapers like all Burmese people do. Men, women, kids, the whole group of them stood around, watched the plane take off, and then all of them left. It was very, very bizarre. I have no idea if this is a daily occurrence here or what. Sometimes I can’t even believe that there are places in the world like Myanmar that are so incredibly behind the times. When I here things about Myanmar being 100 years behind Thailand and then I see something like locals going to the airport to have a chance to see a plane, well then I understand what being 100 years behind really means. More on those thoughts when I get back to Bangkok…
My flight leaves at 16:30 but I don’t arrive in Bangkok until 18:10 because Myanmar is 30 minutes behind Thailand. Why 30 minues and not one hour I couldn’t tell you. One of the many, many mysteries of this country I guess.
Later the same day…
Welcome back to Bangkok, ie Khoa San Road, ie Backpacker snobbery infestation, ie let’s all try to out-travel, out-bargain, out-cool, out-hippie dress, and out-diss everyone and everything in the world -each other.
The scene: On the airport bus into the city, and sitting next to me is a backpacker guy with a Good Morning Vietnam t-shirt on, looking at maps of Bangkok.
Me: Were you just in Vietnam?
Him: No, Lao. (Still looking at the map)
Me: Oh, how did you like Lao?
Him: (Making a bad face, still looking at the map)
Me: You didn’t like it?
Him: (Shaking his head, still looking at the map)
Me: Ok.
Conversation ends, him still looking at the map.
Where’s the LOVE I ask???????
You people don’t DESERVE to wear HIPPIE CLOTHES!!!!!!!!!!!
How do you describe a place as magical as this???
Girl power – me (USA), Lori (Canada), and Mirit (Israel), if only we ruled the world!
Sun, rain, clouds, blue sky, temples, rainbows and me, in Bagan
July 26th, 2002
Full moon today. It’s a holiday/festival day in Bagan because of the full moon – some type of Buddha Day I think. We all (‘we’ being the other travellers at the guesthouse) decided that it would be a good day to visit Mt. Popa which is a famous temple on top of an extinct volcano about 50km from Bagan. We rented a minivan with driver for $3 each and a group of 8 of us set out for Mt. Popa this morning – me, Lori (Canada), the 2 Israeli girls, Edwardo (Spain), the Slovenian couple, and the Japanese man. It was interesting to see the temple especially today because there were many locals there bringing flowers and money offerings but overall none of us were that impressed with it and didn’t think it was worth the 1.5-hour ride each way. I think we had more fun in the car.
The whole group had lunch together back in Bagan and then we retreated back to our aircon rooms to get out of the afternoon heat for a bit.
In the early evening Mirit and I decided to take bicycles and cycle around the pagados for sunset. This was the first time that either of us had seen any of the pagodas in Bagan. When the guidebook says there are’thousands’ of pagodas here they ain’t kidding. Ther are literally everywhere. The landscape is COVERED with them. The evening glow of sunset made all the temples look like gold. We went up to the top of one of them to watch the actual sun set over the river below. Spent almost 2 hours just sitting up there taking in the view. Nice time.
Tomorrow more temple touring is on, and, ok, perhaps some more tailoring as well.
See the big rock on the right with temples on top, thats Mt. Popa
Girl conquers summit of Mt. Popa
A happy Burmese Buddha (Burma has my favorite Buddha faces)
July 24th, 2002
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