Wangapeka Track Day 4 and heading west

December 20th, 2002 at 12:00am

So, today I am trying to get to the west coast to Punakaiki and the Paparoura National Park. Yesterday was my last day on the Wangapeka Track and it was a long day of hiking. I got up early and left the hut to start hiking at 7:30am. The 3 Swiss were still sleeping. I had 16 km of hiking to do to get out of the woods and I was pretty low on food and didn’t have a ride organized to get the 30 km down to the main road so I figured best to get out as early as possible and hope for a ride from someone. I had 1.5 pieces of bread with peanut butter for breakfast and ate my last candy bar and cookie during the hiking so by the time I got out at 1:30pm I had 1/2 piece of bread which I ate straightaway, a little bit of peanut butter left, some potato flakes, and cough drops. I ate 2 cough drops and decided to save the rest in case I couldn’t get a ride and had the spend the night.

There were 4 cars in the parking lot at the trailhead when I finished the track (which was a very scenic end to a beautiful tramp by the way – the last bit took me through a lush river valley and the sun was shining all day!). From the register I could see that only one car had signed in and they were fishing and due out the same day but of course I had no idea what time. I was tired and hungry and didn’t feel like attempting a 30 km (20 mile) road walk just yet so I decided to sit in the shade and rest for an hour and if no one came I’d start walking down at 3pm.

I was just starting to lick the last contents of the peanut butter jar when one of the four cars came down the road. It was a couple in a rental campervan and they pulled over to sign out of the park. I asked the guy if he wouldn’t mind giving me a lift down to the main road and he said they were planning to stop and fish again on the way but he’d take me as far as thet went. He didn’t seem too keen on helping me actually but I ignored his weirdness and took the ride. Turns out they’re from Oregon and are on a 3-week holiday. Not very friendly folks but they gave me a 5 km start on the 30 km road walk and I guess that’s better than nothing.

They let me out to do their fishing and I started walking. And walking. One hour later still walking. No cars! I was singing to the sheep in the pastures along the way -’yeah she’s tired, and hungry, and doesn’t feel like walking…’

Finally a car came by AND it stopped! An older NZ couple who offered to give me a lift. What luck! I would have been camping on that road or begging the weird couple from Oregon for a ride I’m sure. I did have to hear a lecture about how dangerous hitching is from the woman but whatever. She was like’has anyone TOLD you about hitching??? You do KNOW about hitch-hiking don’t YOU??’ And then she went into her shpeal. Hey guess what I’m 31 years old but thanks lady.

They let me off where they were going right and me left and I stuck out my thumb again and the very first car stopped – a young NZ couple coming back from a Nelson Lakes tramp and they offered to give me a ride all the way back to Moteuka so I said cool! But first we stopped at the guy’s work to get something and his mates were all having a beer so we all went into the office to have a beer before hitting the road again. They were really cool and took me into town, so I finally arrived in Moteuka around 6pm.

Set up my tent in the backpackers and went straight to the supermarket and bought way too much food! I’m quite sure I ate too much because later that night I layed down to go to sleep and I felt so full and sick that I actually got up and vomitted almost immediately!

Anyway that was last night. This morning I was up early to run some errands before heading out of town. First I went to the tourist office to pick up my bag from storage and headed straight back to the hostel with my shampoo and conditioner to wash my hair for the first time in 10 days!! I would have done it sooner but there were no travel sizes in Karamea and I couldn’t justify buying a full bottle of shampoo AND conditioner for just one wash. Well it felt great to finally wash the hair today. Then I had a coffee, did some internet, packed up, and headed out.

So my destination today was Punakaiki, which I mentioned at the beginning of this entry that I actually stared to write while sitting on the side of the road waiting for a ride earlier. Now I’m here!

First I got a lift out of town from a local guy who said the hitching was better down the road a bit. He was right. I waited there about 15 minutes or so and a car pulled over – it was a NZ couple and their son and they said they were headed down the coast and would give me a ride all the way to Punakaiki!! That’s over 250 km! Man I was lucky! Really nice people too and I thoroughly enjoyed the 4-hour ride through the mountains and down to the sea while talking with them. I couldn’t believe I got here in one ride!

I was so happy when I arrived. They let me off at a campsite and I went all the way to the back where there was no one and set up my tent in a little alcove of bushes. Perfect spot! Then I walked 1 km up the road to the park office to check conditions and sign in for the 2-day Inland Pack Track which I plan to start tomorrow. Then I walked across the street and did the short walk out to Pancake Rocks which are these really unusual limestone formations in the sea – very beautiful and interesting to see. Not a lot of people there either so it was good. And I was thinking to myself, wow, this has really been the PERFECT day of travelling! I got so much done this morning and even when I was sitting on the road waiting for a ride I was feeling really happy because the sun was out and I had clean hair and life was good. Then I scored such a great ride, got exactly where I wanted to go, and still enjoyed an afternoon of being at the sea. I was on a travel high.

Feeling good, I got an apricot ice cream and ate that as I walked back to the campsite. Walking into the campsite I noticed a whole lot more tents than when I had left 2 hours earlier. Well I guess thing were just going too good. Next to my provate little alcove was a station wagon playing bad music (first Byran Adams, then Croatian Christmas music), and a family (5 adults and 1 child) putting up 2 huge monster tents. Go away! Car campers can be so evil. Oh well. It’s still been a great day. I’m down at the beach now and I’m listening to my own tunes trying to heal the damage down to my ears.

Blue sky and sun makes a hiker happy

Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki

Entry Filed under: Hiking/Trekking,New Zealand,Wangapeka