Bicycle and boat journeys, heading north

Good to be here. Today we left Vientiane on a 2.5-hour bus ride to Thalat to visit a lake (Nam Ngum) on the way here. It was a local bus – no aircon, 3 people to a seat (minimum), with only locals and Winston and I. Wasn’t a bad ride actually since it wasn’t too hot and the road was in good condition the whole way.

Arrived in Thalat and took a tuk-tuk out to the lake (about 10 minute drive). The lake is beautiful, formed by a dam, and covered with tiny little islands. We paid a guy $3 to take us on a boat ride around the lake for 1.5 hours. No other tourists anywhere. From the lake we went back to Thalat (by tuk-tuk again) and then took a bus to the junction back at the main road. From there we had to wait for a bus to Vang Vieng, but it was already late in the afternoon and there were no more buses running today. We waited one hour before we realized this, and finally settled for a ride in a pickup for the final two-hour leg here. It was Winston’s first experience traveling in a pickup and I want to say it will probably be his last (been traveling with him, 30yo, English, since Bangkok). I got to sit inside the pickup, but him, being a guy, had to stand and hang on the back because there was no more room inside. One hour probably would have been ok, but 2 hours was a bit much. The views made up for it though I think – stunning green rice fields, mountains, limestone rocks jetting out in the distance, thatched huts along the road – it was a picturesque journey.

Arrived here 6:30pm, just enough time to find a room ($3 for 2 people), eat dinner, and rest. Tomorrow we will check out the town more and probably make some plans to go caving or kayaking or trekking nearby.

Yesterday was a full day for our last day in Vientiane. We rented bicycles and cycled 24 km out of the city (one-way) to Xieng Khuan, also known as ‘Buddha Park.’ It’s an outdoor collection of Hindu and Buddhist sculptures and it’s pretty cool, a very beautiful place. The guy who created it could have worked for Walt Disney, easily.

The ride out was nice, we passed many temples along the way. Riding back was much hotter at 2pm, and we tried unsuccessfully to stop for ice cream (StarMart was closed) and have a beer (no beer for sale at the Lao Beer Brewery?), so we had to plug along and just deal with the heat and dust and exhaust.

We got back to Vientiane around 4:30 or so, had a shower, then checked email before dinner. This was when I received the unfortunate news that my Grandmom died the day before yesterday. She was 91 years old and still living on her own remarkably enough. She appears to have died of a heart attack in her kitchen. She wasn’t particularly sick in any way so no one in the family was really expecting it. Sad news to get, especially when away from home. I wish I could be there for her funeral on Monday, but I know how supportive and excited she was about me traveling all over the world on my own, and the last thing she would want is for me to come home for her. I’ve been sending her a postcard from every country I’ve visited on this trip, and I guess it will hit me when I realize that I’m not sending one to her anymore. Well that’s really all there is to say about it. Hopefully I will enjoy Vang Vieng despite my heavy heart. Didn’t sleep well last night, need a good night’s sleep tonight.

Xieng Khuan

Buddha Park

Nam Ngum Lake

Add comment October 4th, 2002

Saved the best for last

In a new city in a new country. Arrived here yesterday morning after a 12-hour night train from Bangkok. Took the train to Nong Khai on the Thai side, then a tuk-tuk to the border (passport stamped, departed Thailand), then a bus over the Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge (passport stamped, arriving Laos), and finally a minibus for the 25-minute drive into Vientiane.

Found a good guesthouse with aircon and hot water, had a shower, threw down the bags, and then set out to explore Vientiane.

It’s a nice city, full of temples, nice restaurants, and antique and textile shops, set right along the Mekong River, and the Laotian people are really very friendly and nice and accomodating. A pleasant place to go out for a stroll. No one following you, harassing you, or staring at you like they do in Vietnam. No fear of being mugged like Phnom Phen. I can honestly say it’s one of the most laid-back places I’ve been to in SE Asia. Everyone I know who’s been to Laos absolutely raves about it and now I can see why for myself.

Today I got up early, had a great coffee and bread and fruit breakfast at a Scandinavian Cafe, and then went over to check out the morning market. Lots of good wood carvings, Buddhas, and silk fabrics to be found. I bought a wooden elephant for $4 and a Buddha for $7. After that I went on a little walking tour of the town, written up in the guidebook, first following the Mekong River then going back into town, passing several temples and other houses representing good examples of French Colonial architecture.

Spent the afternoon in the National Museum looking at various archeological finds ranging from dinosaur bones to pre-Ankorian statues. Interesting to view the Lao persepctive on the former French occupation and the American presence during the Vietnam War. Just a few of the quotes straight from the photos:

‘The American Imperialists actively threaten the people who are patriotic towards their homeland.’

‘The people in the liberated zone urge the US Imperialists to leave Laos.’

‘List of the Lao Patriotic Front Leaders and officials who were captured and imprisoned by US Imperialists and it’s puppets.’

‘Monks killed by US Imperialist Bombs.’

‘The US Imperialists commit crimes against the Lao people.’

Easy to understand why so much of the world hates Americans…

Tomorrow the plans involve Buddha Park.

One of many temples in the capital city of Vientiane

Evidence of French colonial architecture everywhere

Tuk-tuks in rush hour traffic

Add comment October 2nd, 2002